Just because I read the instructions doesn’t mean I need to follow them.

  • saltesc@lemmy.world
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    18 days ago

    You’d think as a climber, I know a lot of knots, but I don’t know this one. In fact I only know the figure 8, bowline, how to tie a prusik, and a reef, which I usually fuck up first go.

    Basically, don’t ask a rock climber to help out with knots unless your life depends on it, then you’re good.

    • Fallibilist@feddit.ukOP
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      18 days ago

      I’m not sure if this is even suitable for climbing. I like it because it’s easy to untie even after being tightened.

      • saltesc@lemmy.world
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        18 days ago

        Sounded like the kind of knot that’s good for climbing. Bomb proof and easy to untie. So I looked it up and it does indeed get used, but it looks too complicated, so risky. Never seen it done, but also, never seen anyone risk tying two ropes together. I’d rather anchor in and wait for a rescue.

    • dual_sport_dork 🐧🗡️@lemmy.world
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      18 days ago

      Well, there is very little call for knowing any knots except the figure eight when rock climbing. In fact in my experience with the same, it seems that knowledge of too many fancy knots tends to lead people towards using the wrong knot for the application for no other reason than to show off and/or justify knowing that knot. But one thing most people of that stripe tend not to know is how said knot performs under strain or shock load or being bounced when unloaded. And most especially, how various knots reduce the load capacity of the rope where they’re tied.

      For similar reasons, I wince every time I see arborists insisting that the bowline is the answer for every single application imaginable up to and including supporting human weight, which it absolutely is not — speaking of knots that can be untied by bouncing them. You will never catch me dangling from a bowline in any circumstances.

      You could do a lot worse than only being good at figure eights, then.

      • save_the_humans@leminal.space
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        18 days ago

        There are variations to the bowline that make them suitable for climbing. Scotts locked, EBSB, lees link, harry butlers Yosemite, and alan lees Yosemite.

        I’d pick the harry butlers Yosemite bowline, and Id say it is objectively better than the figure eight. Its totally security, easier to untie after heavy load, just as easy to verify, similar line strength reduction as the figure 8, and the tail end points inside the eye as to not interfere with clipping the rope to climbing protection.

      • JoeBigelow@lemmy.ca
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        18 days ago

        There are many other knots used commonly in climbing and he named a few. You cannot tie off a three way anchor with a figure 8, a bowline is not safe for human weight because it can invert, despite being used for thousand pound logs all day everyday at my job… And it’s funny he called it a reef to me, all my sailing buddies call it a reef, all my climbing friends say square, and hardly use it. A sheet bend is really hardy for hauling loads up the wall, a prussic for a repel device, and an alpine butterfly for tripoint anchors.

        Edit: this is more about Trad climbing than sport or toprope. If you didn’t set the anchor on a toprope and your guide/partner isn’t into carabiner/harness setups, yea you’re gonna tie a lot of double 8s

        I am a few stages into the knit obsession, I own the Ashley Book and have a couple project knots displayed in my house.

      • volore@scribe.disroot.org
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        18 days ago

        Oh, in that case, you’ll get a call saying you used the wrong type of knots about .4 of a femtosecond after you get home, and asking you “how are you gonna make this right?”

        • Fallibilist@feddit.ukOP
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          18 days ago

          Luckily I’ve yet to receive such call. The vast majority of my customers are unreasonably reasonable.

          However, if there ever is an issue with the quality of my work, I’ll ofcourse come and fix it free of charge.

          • volore@scribe.disroot.org
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            18 days ago

            Luckily I’ve yet to receive such call. The vast majority of my customers are unreasonably reasonable.

            reasonable customers? strangers, random members of the public, behaving in a reasonable manner, especially when money is involved?

            I don’t believe you.

  • Matty_r@programming.dev
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    18 days ago

    Maybe someone can help me. There was some sort of hitch knot my father showed me once, for tying down loads, and you could pull the rope and it would self tighten and to undo it you would pull a part in the middle of a loop.

    I’ve never been able to find anything like it.

    • Fallibilist@feddit.ukOP
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      18 days ago

      Trucker’s hitch. It also gives you 3:1 mechanical advantage and there’s a self-locking version too.

    • JoeBigelow@lemmy.ca
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      18 days ago

      You got a link and a description, I’ll add a quick instruction.

      Tie off the standing end, cross the space and around your close anchor. Stop. About 1/3 of the way across the gap(unless it’s a very long span, then just a comfortable distance) make a loop. Best knot IMO here is a bowline on a bight, but I’m not explaining that here lol so tie a double overhand, the one you certainly know to make a loop. That will lock up but that’s a problem for tomorrow. Now, pass the working end that’s gone around the anchor through the loop, and back towards the anchor. Pull on that shit! You have as much room as you left to the loop to draw right with. I usually go back around the anchor and finish with a double fisherman’s, while controversial, I like the ability to slide the locking knot loose, and am comfortable with friction holding it.

  • DantesFreezer@lemmy.world
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    18 days ago

    It’s superior by far when you may want to ever actually u tie the rope. But my experience with some ropes is that the action of loading and unloading or otherwise jostling the knot can cause it to come loose.

    I sometimes tie off the loose ends together to prevent that but it’s hella ugly and bulky.

    Any advice on using this knot?

    • Fallibilist@feddit.ukOP
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      17 days ago

      But my experience with some ropes is that the action of loading and unloading or otherwise jostling the knot can cause it to come loose.

      That is why I used this rather than the reef knot. This wont come undone when not under constant tension.

      If you need extra security it’s often better to tie a stopper knot in the ends of the lines rather than tying them together.

    • sartalon@lemmy.world
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      18 days ago

      It just looks like a square knot to me. What is the difference?

      Edit. I took the 30 seconds to look it up.

      Square knot is a reef knot.

      I always knew it as:

      “Right over left and under, then left over right and under.” 🤷